Tilicho Lake, sitting at nearly 5,000 meters in Nepal’s Annapurna range, is one of the highest lakes in the world. In October 2024, four of us—Sarup Khanal (my forever trek partner), Pranish Adhikari, Surya Khatri, and me—embarked on a trek that pushed our limits and gifted us memories for a lifetime. This blog is a day-by-day chronicle of our journey, describing not only the trail but also the emotions, struggles, and small joys that defined the adventure.
Day 1: Biratnagar to Khangsar (October 2, 2024)
Our adventure began at 4:00 PM with a pre-booked bus from Biratnagar. The long overnight journey was filled with snacks, laughter, and occasional silence as we each pondered the road ahead. By 4:00 AM, we reached Dumre, a bustling highway town where the chill in the air reminded us that the mountains were near.
From Dumre, we hired a taxi to Besisahar. The roads wound tightly around hills, offering glimpses of rivers below and villages waking up for the day. In Besisahar, we had steaming cups of milk tea, local breakfast, and stocked up on last-minute essentials like biscuits, water purification tablets, and woolens. Then began the ride to Khangsar. The path was dusty and treacherous, carved into cliffs. I struggled with motion sickness, each curve making the journey harder. My friends encouraged me constantly, reminding me of the destination that awaited. By afternoon, we reached Khangsar (3,750 m), known as the “Last Village of Nepal.” That evening, after plates of dal bhat and medicine, we collapsed into bed, our trek truly begun.
Day 2: Khangsar to Tilicho Base Camp (October 3, 2024)
We rose with the sun, the crisp Himalayan air filling our lungs. After a modest breakfast, we set out for Tilicho Base Camp. The trail was relentless—steep inclines, landslide-prone slopes where every step had to be calculated, and cliffside paths that tested our courage. The landscape alternated between barren slopes and rugged beauty, with the mighty Annapurna peaks watching over us.
We stopped at a teahouse midway for a quick lunch of noodle soup and tea, exchanging stories with other trekkers. The final stretch felt endless. Each uphill turn revealed yet another slope, and fatigue threatened to pull us down. But together, after 8–10 exhausting hours, we arrived at Tilicho Base Camp (4,150 m). The tiny settlement of lodges buzzed with trekkers, tired but cheerful. That night, lying under a blanket of stars, we felt both broken and proud. Tomorrow would bring the lake itself.
Day 3: The Ascent to Tilicho Lake (October 4, 2024)
At 6:00 AM, bundled in jackets, we started our climb. The altitude made breathing difficult, and each step felt heavier than the last. The trail zigzagged across steep, barren slopes, frost crunching beneath our boots. Encouragement and steady pacing kept us moving. Slowly, after nearly five grueling hours, the climb opened into a vast plateau—and there it was.
Tilicho Lake (4,919 m). A shimmering turquoise expanse surrounded by towering snow peaks. The silence was profound, broken only by the wind. This wasn’t just a lake—it was a sacred site tied to Hindu mythology, believed to be Kak Bhusundi Lake from the Ramayana. We sat by the water, overwhelmed. All the hardship was worth this moment. We took photos, shared quiet reflections, and let the serenity of Tilicho sink in before descending. The return to base camp was quicker but equally draining. That night, exhaustion claimed us, but our dreams were full of mountains and shimmering waters.
Day 4: Tilicho Base Camp to Besisahar (October 5, 2024)
The fourth day was the most demanding. We left base camp early, retracing our steps through the same landslide-prone slopes. Descending tested our knees and balance, but the familiarity of the trail gave us confidence. Passing through Khangsar once again, we shared a meal and pushed forward, determined to reach Besisahar by nightfall.
By 8:00 PM, after nearly 12 hours on foot, we stumbled into Besisahar. The sense of relief was indescribable. That night, we feasted on local food, laughed over shared jokes, and even enjoyed a few glasses of homemade wine. The exhaustion melted into joy. It was the kind of night that reminded us why we trek—not just for the mountains, but for the memories forged together.
Day 5: Besisahar to Biratnagar (October 6, 2024)
The final day felt calm compared to the chaos of the trek. We woke up around 10:00 AM, packed our gear, and had a relaxed breakfast. The morning was slow, filled with chatter and reflection on the past days. At 4:00 PM, we boarded our bus from Dumre for the overnight journey back to Biratnagar. The ride was long but peaceful. As the bus rolled through the night, we each relived our favorite moments—the first glimpse of Tilicho, the stars above base camp, the meals we shared. By the next morning, we were back home, where we slept nearly 24 hours straight, our bodies recovering but our hearts still in the mountains.
Final Thoughts & Practical Tips
Best Time: Spring (Mar–May) and Autumn (Sep–Nov) offer the clearest skies and stable conditions. Avoid monsoon (landslides) and winter (snow-blocked passes).
Permits: Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP) and Trekkers’ Information Management System (TIMS) card are required. Bring passport photos.
Packing: Layered clothing, sturdy trekking boots, sleeping bag, altitude medicine, water purification, snacks, power bank, and reusable bottle are musts.
Challenges: Expect altitude sickness, landslide-prone paths, cold nights, and limited facilities. Start trekking early to avoid afternoon hazards.
Tips: Go with friends or a guide, allow flexible days, and respect local culture and environment by minimizing waste.
This trek was more than a physical challenge. It was about friendship, perseverance, and discovery. The journey tested us, but standing before Tilicho Lake reminded us that while treks may end, the spirit of adventure never does.